The Bastille Day 10

In honour of Bastille Day and a few hours spent looking at photos culled (mostly) from old albums - very 20th Century. Here are 10 places I miss in France:


La Trinité sur Mer near Carnac in Brittany. The fishing boats


and the beaches.



St Malo, a walled city in Normandy.


The sense of desolation at Aigues-Mortes in the Camargue. And the wild horses, pink flamingos and black bulls of the surrounding delta.


photo: wikicommons

Arles, for its Roman Arena and links to Vincent van Gogh.


photo: wikicommons

Colmar, for all the pretty flowers and all the vins d'Alsace.


photo: wikicommons

The Catalan area of France, Languedoc-Roussillon, for its climate, food, people and the ancient towns of Perpignan, Sète, Béziers, Nîmes and Carcassone.


photo: wikicommons

L'Ardèche. The river valley cuts through limestone cliffs making it one of the most scenic areas of France with superb kayaking.


Dijon, heart of Burgundy... and the Burgundian way of life.


The Loire Valley,


its chateaux and its wines.


and of course, Paris.

Still in Vacation Mode

Normal service will be resumed unless I find a way to join this boat on its voyage to... who knows where.....

If You liked KC You're Gonna Love Kansas

So by now you have realised that I was in Kansas City for a couple of days. The raison d'etre for the midwest excursion was a little business and a visit to the renowned Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art but I grabbed the chance to take a side trip into Kansas to meet with home builder and food blogger Marilyn of Simmer Till Done in the "coolest college town in the US".
I've been following Marilyn since her house blogger days, admiring her design aesthetic and vicariously enjoying the thrill of the chase as she tracked down plumbing fittings, vintage hardware and decorative items on ebay. What kept me reading was her writing; her turn of phrase and wry humor that permeated every post. Towards the end of construction she began to post the recipes and mouth-watering photographs of food that eventually became Simmer Till Done.
Let me tell you that in real life she doesn't disappoint. Meeting Marilyn was like catching up with an old friend; so many stories to share, experiences to expand upon, blogs we love and bloggers we know. We talked as we toured the town, I learned the history and fun facts (the town grid is made up of numbered streets crossed with states in the order they joined the union); we chatted as I explored her beautiful house and met her lovely family including the famous Cleo and wandered back into town for coffee. Five hours later we were still talking. Here's just a taste:


Perfect bites of happiness: She baked Rugelach and sent me home with a doggy bag full.


She's a bit of an alchemist, turning simple ingredients into homemade Limoncello and other flavored liqueurs - smooth and sweet with an unexpected kick at the finish


She showed me this breadboard in real life


and took me to a bank to eat artisanal antipasti and salad. A side note: Do you know how difficult it is to eat when you just can't stop talking?
Another fun fact to finish? Her town has some 90,000 residents. Marilyn seems to know each and everyone personally - either that or it is also the friendliest town in the midwest!

Guess Where I've Been: Part 1

Europe?


Seville?


Not Geneva - though there was a fountain


Maybe Tuscany for the Boar?


Florence?


Not Venice - although there were gondolas...

All will be revealed in due course. Happy 4th!

Vacation Vistas VII

Leaving the Mainland
Long Island Sound

Vacation Vistas VI

Ominous Clouds
Mystic, Connecticut

Vacation Vistas V

Topiary
Newport, Rhode Island

Vacation Vistas IV

Abandoned Rails
Newport, Rhode Island

Vacation Vistas III

Shady Arbor
Newport, Rhode Island

Vacation Vistas II

Scarecrow Convention
Newport, Rhode Island

Vacation Vistas

Porpoise Driven
Newport, Rhode Island

Ceci n'est pas un musée

Well not quite yet anyway but in six short weeks the long awaited Magritte Museum will open in Brussels. In somewhat surreal fashion the website is still under construction but there is a link to this fantastic video that shows the stately Beaux-Arts Museum as well as the virtual Magritte Museum.
Visitors to The Cool House may get a clue how much I love Magritte's art, and I've been to many retrospectives that brought together paintings from all over the world but this museum will house the largest single collection of his work - more than 170 paintings - as well as letters, photographs and films.

The Musée Magritte Museum opens June 2 2009 in the former Hotel Altenloh, a neo-classical building on Place Royale, Brussels. Tickets can be reserved now: by email or phone: +32 (0)2/508 33 33.

I'll be there as soon as possible.

Copper-Bottom

.... sides, lids, handles and more. A stall at the beautiful, tempting flea market in San Telmo, Buenos Aires.

Xmas Buenos Aires Style

From the famous Galerías Pacífico, a shopping mall in a Beaux-Arts building in Buenos Aires. More photos of the murals and spectacular glass roof here.

Cafe life

Sometimes you just need to sit down and catch your breath. Where better than a cafe with a well-stocked bar


in exquisite Beaux-Arts surroundings


and its own permanent art gallery - quality art everywhere you look. Cafe Tortoni in Buenos Aires is a landmark, it may be a little touristy but the architecture is spectacular. The only question is: do I need an espresso or a G&T?

And then there was food

Argentina is famous for its grass fed beef. I love it because it doesn't cause all those internal issues that corn fed meat can do (wind, gas or heartburn or whatever your particular affliction may be), and frankly, it just tastes better. Parrilla or grilled steaks, are available everywhere and in huge portions but our favorite turned out to be mollejas or sweetbreads. These were simply cooked, as all parrilla is, just seasoned with salt and pepper and served sliced with wedges of lemons on the side. Succulent and exquisite, without the addition of the usual cream-based sauce, they were very light. Just a simple watercress salad and a cubierto of bread, it made the perfect meal. We also tried the famous asado made in al asador or the embers of a charcoal fire, just like the gauchos cooked it, and ate the offal and chevito, baby goat, with a little chimichurri and a lot of Malbec.
But it's not all about the beef in Buenos Aires, the Spanish and Italian influences mean great desserts, too. As in Belgium, coffee is accompanied by a little sweet something, or even three somethings as in the photo above- a chocolate, a tiny biscuit and sliver of cake. And like in Europe, an entree is an appetizer not the main course. Hurray for logic and food heaven.

Buenos Aires: Cocktail time

Sadly inflation hit BA in the early 2000's so the $5 cocktail is now a $10 cocktail, but that didn't stop us hitting the bar every evening, especially as drinks come with great nibble - chips, almonds, cheese, savory biscuits and smoked salmon appetizers. That held us until dinner time, which as in Spain, tends to be served around 10 pm. Really, though, who needs dinner after all that? Well, we do, of course. Anyway, here's my favorite

The Plaza Bar Tango Martini

2 oz. Gin
1 oz. Cointreau
1 oz. fresh squeezed lime juice
1 oz. fresh squeezed orange juice
Pour into a cocktail shaker over ice. Shake and serve.

The most refreshing Martini I've drunk. The barman also invented a new cocktail for me which was very tall and pretty and pink but rather more Verity's thing as it was reminiscent of a Mojito but gin based:

2 oz. Gin
Simple syrup
Mint
Pink grapefruit juice
Muddle the mint into the sugar. Add ice cubes, gin and top with pink grapefruit juice. Stir and serve.

Buenos Aires

And that's only a tiny part of it. There was giant carp and cute kittens, parrilla and asado, Malbec and martinis, art and architecture, polo and poverty and about six weeks worth of blog postings. I have a wee bit of jet lag right now so expect more later. For now, I can direct you over here to look at these guys. Swoon. They breed 'em beautiful in the southern hemisphere, no?

Flying South

We're heading south for a few days. Florida? Nope. Mexico? Keep going. Farther. Not there yet. It's a long, long way. So far that it will be summer when we get there.
We won't actually be flying American. This 1968 AA advertisement is purely so you can marvel at
a) the fab mod cape that was part of the uniform
b) the iconic Saarinen Tulip chair the model is curled up in (I'm sure that wasn't a comfortable pose)
c) the inappropriate sexism of the concept
I'll post as and when I can, but as the hotel we will be staying at has one of the best bars in the city who knows how lucid I will be?

11.11.11.

Today is Armistice Day, the 90th anniversary of the end of World War One. Even in this time of war it is difficult to image the trauma that millions went through fighting "the war to end all wars", but if you have lived in Flanders there is a constant reminder in the landscape and the rebuilt city of Ieper.
One of the starkest, most powerful experiences is to visit the Menenpoort or Menin Gate and see the names of the missing 54,896 soldiers inscribed into the walls. No one leaves there unaffected by the sacrifice the mostly very young men made in the name of civilisation. Further out of town there are the Cemeteries where thousands of soldiers are buried and the harrowing but compelling In Flanders Fields Museum that tells the story of The Great War from the perspective of witnesses, both soldiers and civilians, to the misery and horror of Ypres, Passchendaele and The Somme. The war ended at 11 am on 11th of November 1918, and is remembered every year at this time with a minute's silence. Lest we forget.

In Flanders Fields
In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
We are the dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved, and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.
- Lt.-Col. John McCrae